2009 was one of those exceptional years where virtually every region in France produced stunning wines. Burgundy was no exception. The quality of the 2010 vintage, on the other hand, came as more of a surprise as it was a year which presented many problems for the growers. At various times a combination of cooler-than-normal temperatures, frost and hail threatened to consign the vintage to mediocrity. Thankfully, July was warm and sunny, rescuing the flowering and with the exception of the odd storm here and there, the weather stabilised. The problem with frost and hail is that they inevitably cause damage to the vines, and as a result, yields are down by almost 30% in some parts of the region. Weather extremes or inconsistencies certainly lead to problems, but often what is left is fantastic – and this is the case for 2010 Burgundy: red wines that have a great expression of fruit, concentration and power; white wines that are beautifully balanced and fresh. Purity and energy are words you will hear regularly when it comes to both reds and whites from 2010. Respected critic and Burgundy resident Allen Meadows of Burghound claims that the 2010 Burgundies are notable for their refinement, balance and great sense of energy:
“It’s one thing to have racy acidity and punch but it’s another to ally these attributes with real substance. And this is what the 2010s do with such brilliance.”
This really is a vintage not to be missed, and there is a strong argument to suggest that 2010 will be regarded among the finest vintages in recent memory.
“In the top echelon of the world’s finest Pinot Noir producers along with The Domaine Leroy, Bernard Dugat makes the most “vin de garde” Pinot Noir in the world. It is truly a mistake to drink his Villages wines, on up through the Crus, before they have been in bottle five years after the vintage (the Bourgogne, maybe three). He and his charming wife, Jocelyne Py, thus Domaine Dugat-Py, work extremely hard in the vines (theirs are some of the most beautifully tended in all of Burgundy), cutting them back in order to lower yields and extract more from the soil. Bernard’s wines are so intense because they are so concentrated from the juice that goes into the wine.That Bernard is a genius in vinifying Pinot Noir doesn’t hurt either.” Burghound.com
Crafted from clay/limestone plots with an average vine age of 35 years. Traditional winemaking techniques are the rule at Dugat-Py and no artificial preparations have been used on the soil or vinessince 2003. Yields are miniscule at 23 hectolitres per hectare – the equivalent of most producers’ Grand Cru yields. This is a wine for laying down, but can be appreciated when young after carafing for several hours before serving. The wine is not filtered.
£340.20 / €428.17 per 12 bottles Buy Online
“A classic Gevrey nose combines pungent earth and underbrush aromas with cool and pure red berry fruit nuanced by a touch of cassis that is in keeping with the restrained, textured and concentrated middle weight all wrapped in a hugely complex and persistent finish. This is one of the finest village wines that I have ever tasted but note that it is built to go at least 20 years. Tasted: 1 Jan 2011. Score: 91–94. Drink: 2023+.” Burghound
£1,134.00 / €1,399.76 per 12 bottles Buy Online
The Domaine comprises 5 hectares of vineyards including holdings in several Premier Cru sites and 3 Grands Crus. Winemaking is conducted with as little intervention as possible. The vines are very oldand yields are kept very low. Wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered. Dugat-Py seeks elegance, not opulence in his wines. Although concentrated, the wines are very stylish and well balanced. The Vieilles Vignes is produced from vines of between 30 and 50 years of age, grown in clay/limestone soils. The vines have been treated only with organic preparations since 2003 and yields are exceptionally low. Production is a miniscule 3000 to 4000 bottles. The wine will be at its best with 5–8 years of cellaring.
£826.20 / €1,026.50 per 12 bottles Buy Online
“The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is a totally seamless, opulent wine that caresses the palate with layers of intense fruit. Fullbodied and rich to the finish, the 1er Cru is flat-out beautiful. This authoritative Burgundy will require patience, but it is striking in is harmony. In 2009 the 1er Cru is made from parcels in Les Corbeaux and Les Perrieres, as Dugat made the decision to vinify and age the Fontenys separately in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2024–2039.91–94 pts.” Antonio Galloni, eRobertParker.com, May 2011
“100% new oak. Corbeaux, Perrières. The fruit is starting to climb out of the oak here. Very polished and zesty with real attack. Harmonious,and quite forward for Dugat-Py. 17 pts. Drink 2016–2026.” Jancis Robinson Purple Pages, 27 Jan 2011
£945.00 / €1163.72 per 6 bottles Buy Online
“The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin bursts onto the palate with layers of dark, finely-knit fruit. This is an expansive, broad-shouldered wine that blossoms with notable richness and depth. The intensity of the fruit flows through gracefully to the long, intense finish. Anticipated maturity: 2029–2049. 95–97 pts.”Antonio Galloni, eRobertParker.com, May 2011“Contains one-third Mazoyères. 100% new oak. Very dark. Less than 50% whole grapes. Very luscious and spicy. Firm structure underneath. Very flattering. Very fluid for him! Lots of excitement underneath here. 17+ pts.”Jancis Robinson Purple Pages, 27 Jan 2011
£1,431.00 / €1756.57 per 6 bottles Buy Online
Javillier’s wines are full of charm and flavour, so the crisp acidity of 2010 suits them well. Lees contact has long been a cornerstone of élevage in this ex courtier’s well-kept, well-lit cellars.
“Always one of Javillier’s best value wines, this cuvée is made from 30-year-old vines in Les Pellans lieu-dit to the west of Meursault village towards Puligny which, unusually, is classified partly in theMeursault appellation and partly as Bourgogne Blanc. He is lucky enough to have 0.75 ha of Les Pellans – enough to make this wine in reasonable quantity, and the mineral-infused wine is so called because the vineyard is based on ancient Oligocene deposits under brown limestone. Although it is not long bottled, and carries the humble Bourgogne appellation, it will continue to evolve for many a year in bottle. I would drink this highly successful vintage between 2013 and 2017.” Jancis Robinson, Purple Pages, Wine of the Week, January 2012
£237.06 / €304.65 per 12 bottles Buy Online
This cuvée comes from different parcels in the Bourgogne Blanc appellation situated in the territory of Meursault les Herbeux and les Vaux next to Volnay. The brown soils of les Herbeux and a part of les Vaux are on silt covering ancient alluvium or villafranchian. The nose of this wine is expressive with notes of white and yellow fruits, succulent flowers and touches of toast. On the palate, the wine displays fine balance with a creamy mouthfeel with hints of apple, citrus and spice undercut with crisp acidity. This is an expressive and fresh wine with a long, refreshing finish. Tight and powerful wine, it can be enjoyed over the next three years.
£193.86 / €252.50 per 12 bottles Buy Online
The name “Tillet” refers to a kind of medieval lime tree that was found in and around the Javillier vineyards. Les Tillets is above the village of Meursault near the mountain. The nose of the Tillets is expressive, marked by aromas of white flowers, yellow and white fruit as well as lightly spicy notes. The nose is complex with great elegance. The palate is round with lovely vivacity and excellent aromatic freshness as well as minerality. This is a wine with a great deal of finesse and persistence on the palate that doesn’t conceal its power. Elegant and linear, its style is between a classic Meursault and a Puligny-Montrachet. Drink 2013–2018.
£415.80 / €526.97 per 12 bottles Buy Online
Nose of hazelnut, citrus fruit, green apple, lemon and tangerine with a tasty touch of sea salt. Lovely refreshing feel on the palate with hazelnut, glycerine, green apple, and smoke tones overall. This wine, one of JN’s best-selling Burgundies, will cellar happily for at least 5 years.
£372.60 / €466.59 per 12 bottles Buy Online
“From vineyards situated just above Vosne-Romanée (and picked five days later), this is a brilliant entry point red from a domaine on the up. Light, elegant, balanced and fragrant. Drink now and for the next 5 years. 92 pts.” Tim Atkin
£204.66 / €260.74 per 12 bottles Buy Online