The chance to taste 12 top properties across the fascinating run of Bordeaux vintages from 2009 – 2012 from chateaux located in the different communes of Bordeaux was not to be missed. The lovely Portico rooms with their view of the River Thames made a bright, airy venue, perfect for tasting some of the world’ most sought-after, talked about and written about wines. I have picked out some of the highlights:

Pessac Leognan - Chateau Smith Haut Lafite Rouge 2010, cru Classe  - Florence Cathiard describes this as “intellectual”. It is certainly a terroir-driven wine with wonderful complexity, savoury black fruit and balanced ripe tannins. Very long finish. Drink 2018 – 30 JB 17.5

Sauternes - Chateau Guiraud, 1er Grand Cru Classe 2011 – the chance to taste 2009 – 2012 vertically just shows the class and longevity of 2011 as a top Sauternes vintage, confirming our judgement last year. This wine has marmalade and barley sugar on the nose. Opulent purity, very sweet yet balanced with fine acidity and subtle use of oak. Extremely long finish.

Cotes de Castillon -    Chateau d’Aiguilhe 2010 – Acquired by Comte Stephan von Neipperg in 1998 this 111 hectare property often offers good value for money, particularly in a stand-out vintage like the 2010. Savoury mineral and spicy blackberries on the nose. Very creamy intense fruit yet balanced with fresh acidity. Very long and fresh. JB18.

Saint Emilion - Clos de L’Oratoire 2012, Grand Cru Classe – situated on a north east slope and consisting only of 10 hectares, the encepagement here is 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Fragrant, mineral and chocolate notes. Not overblown yet textured with superfine tannins and a long silky finish. Drink 2014- 2020 JB17 - Chateau Canon La Gafferliere 2010, Grand Cru Classe, St Emilion – Exotic, chocolate and spice on the nose. Creamy, intense, very pure with layers of licorice and blueberry flavours. Spicy, ripe yet fresh tannic structure. Very long, creamy finish. Drink 2017 – 40 JB 18.5. LAST FEW CASES STILL AVAILABLE AT EN PRIMEUR PRICES - La Mondotte 2010, Saint Emilion – Located east of the St Emilion limestone plateau, this is a bijou little vineyard at only 4.5 hectares. Nothing little about this wine however: weighing in at a massive 15%. Intense, brooding black fruit, shot through with lively spice. Concentrated yet balanced with high acidity. Drink 2025 – 60 JB18.5 - Chateau Canon 2010, 1er Grand Cru, St Emilion – ripe black fruit, chocolate and minerals. Wonderful texture and balance. Really develops and grows on the palate to a long, spicy crescendo. Drink 2016 – 50 JB18.5

Pomerol - Chateau Gazin 2012 – composed of 100% Merlot, the wine has chocolate and Christmas cake aroma followed by mouth filling fruit and a huge tannic structure. Good acidity, well balanced but needs time. JB17.5. - We are currently offering the 2012 Hospitalet de Gazin at £199 for 12 bts. Made from the younger vines, it offers excellent early drinking.

Margaux - Chateau Rauzan Segla 2012, 2me cru classe – John Kolassa told me that the 2012 vintage was all about vigil and crop thinning. After flowering they thinned the crop in July and also at the end of August. The assemblage is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot. Charming nose of blueberry and toast. Fleshy yet gentle texture on palate balanced by well defined acidity. Lovely purity and fine tannins. Drink 2015 – 25 JB18.

St Julien - Chateau Branaire Ducru 2010, 4me Cru Classe – cedar and cassis, classic St Julien nose. Lovely quality of fruit, well structed and beautifully harmonious. Drink 2018 – 40. JB17.5 - Chateau Leoville Poyferre 2010, 2me Cru Classe,  - complex, creamy black fruit. Very opulent on the palate, poised, elegant, very complete. Big tannic structure yet cashmere smoothness. Very long. Drink 2020-50. JB18.5.

Pauillac - Chateau Pontet Canet 2012 – savoury, cedar and blackcurrant nose. Fine texture, medium bodied, very pure with a lightness of touch yet builds to a big tannic finish. Drink 2016 – 25 JB17 - Chateau Pontet Canet 2011 – Spicy, blackcurrant and graphite nose. Savoury, crunchy fruit with a creamy core, ripe tannins(rare in this vintage). Long, fresh finish. 2017 – 25 JB17.5 - Chateau Pontet  Canet 2010 – 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Wow, what an amazing wine! Massive in every respect: the density of the colour, the nose, the structure and the length. Spicy, minty, chocolate and crème de cassis on the nose. Opulent, intense, yet also so elegant – how do they do it? The estate is now working fully biodynamically – is it something to do with that?? Wonderful stuff but patience required. Drink 2025 – 60. JB19.5 (RP100) - Chateau Pontet Canet 2009 – cedar, damson and black fruit on the nose. Very concentrated on the palate and seamless cashmere texture edged by needle-fine acidity and well integrated oak. Very long elegant finish. Drink 2018 – 40. JB19 (RP100) - I asked Alfred Tesseron which he preferred between the 2009 and the 2010. He replied “What a question! They are my children – how can I choose?” Bonne reponse, Monsieur Tesseron!