There are whispers on the grapevine of something exciting happening in a little corner of northwest Spain. Now and again throughout winemaking history, there are sparks of revolution and innovation –could Bierzo be the next big thing?
During one of his buying trips to Spain and Portugal, Mr Nicholson rather serendipitously came across the talented people at Dominio de Tares. They are one of the fantastic teams in Bierzo turning these intriguing grapes into quality wines. With the ideal ingredients of old vines, great sites, and a hefty dose of talent, they're making quite a name for themselves in the region and attracting very favourable comments from some of the world's most renowned critics.
They have some of the oldest vines in the region; some are more than 80 years old (just as significant in vine years as it is in human years) and they are fully exploring the versatility and charms of the indigenous grape varieties to make a range of delicious wines in different styles.
The red grape of Bierzo is called Mencia (pronounced men-seeya) and the white is Godello. Mencia has similarities to Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. There's good red fruit concentration, herbal notes and unobtrusive tannins, making for a lighter sensation when drinking the wine but without any loss of flavour. Godello is a light and fresh (grapefruity) wine with a delicate aroma that transports you to warm Mediterranean shores and the delicate scent of evening flowers as the sun goes down.
Dominio de Tares Godello 2012
The only white in the range. Aromatic and fresh with a zesty, grapefruity finish. Has been aged in barrel for a short while to add some smoky, savoury notes.
Dominio de Tares Baltos 2010
Their entry level Mencia from younger vines, made to be fruity and vibrant and for drinking now. A fantastic introduction to this delicious grape with its attractive red fruit, delicate violet aromas and refreshing finish. "Highly recommended" (Decanter, April 2013, 17.75/20 pts)
Dominio de Tares Cepas Viejas 2009
A step up from the Baltos, from older vines (60 years) and with longer barrel ageing for more structure and body. This wine is more intense with cherry, raspberry, violet, liquorice and spice on the nose. Smooth, full bodied and elegant with a long finish. "Outstanding" (Decanter, April 2013, 18.75/20 pts)
Dominio de Tares Bembibre 2007
An even more intense wine from vines of over 80 years of age. The wine benefits from longer oak ageing resulting in a more concentrated, rich wine that will age beautifully for another decade. The wine shows deeper flavours and aromas of black cherries, black plums, floral notes of roses and violets and underlying tobacco and sandalwood. It is full and smooth with persistent length, refreshing acidity and perfect balance.
