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Image of Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe logo and man working in a vineyard

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe 

It was Henri Brunier who gave birth to this beautiful family story in 1891. A few generations later, at the very beginning of the 80s, Frédéric and Daniel took over the destiny of the family business in tandem. In 2015 and 2016, Nicolas, son of Frédéric, and Edouard, son of Daniel, entered the history of the Old Telegraph, fully integrating the company in key positions. Manon, daughter of Frédéric, joined them in 2018.

Image of the Brunier family

Henri Brunier penned the first chapter of the family’s story in 1891 in the village of Bédarrides, well known today as occupying the south-eastern portion of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC area. In that year, he gifted to his son Hippolyte some plots of land on La Crau, a place in those days considered practically unfit for cultivation, its soil a thankless proposition due to a high density of pebbles. Hippolyte planted his first vine stocks on this commanding plateau, where grapes had first been grown in the 14th century; and where, in 1821, Claude Chappe, inventor of the optical telegraph, built one of his signal towers. Hippolyte’s son, Jules, extended the estate to 42 acres and aptly named the fruits of his labours “Vieux Télégraphe”.

At the end of the Second World War, Henri, the second thus named and the fourth generation, had the formidable task of reviving the estate and shaping its destiny. Since the early 1980s his two sons, Frédéric and Daniel, have been tending to the family concern.

The estate’s vineyards, 70 years old on average, are planted on the celebrated Plateau of La Crau, a site renowned for grape-growing in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This terroir imparts to their wines, a highly distinctive minerality, as if they have been filtered through the thick layer of large pebbles left behind when the Alpine glaciers melted, long before the Rhône Valley formed.

The year 1998 marked the creation of Massaya in Lebanon in association with Sami and Ramzi Ghosn, which now makes wines from 123 acres of vines, planted mainly in the northeast Beqaa Valley.

After more than 125 years in existence, the Domaine and its associated vineyards, guided by the fifth and the sixth generations of vignerons, have kept all of its initial philosophy very much alive.

Image of map of Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe

The Wines

The Brunier are best known for their lauded Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe (red and white) Châteauneuf-du-Pape from grapes grown on the stony plateau de la Crau in the south-east of the appellation, where the villages of Bédarrides, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Courthézon meet.

Image of Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-Du-Pape wine range

2020 Assemblage: 65% Grenache Noir, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette and sundry others 5% from vines averaging 70 years old. The wines are matured for 20-22 months in French oak foudres (60hl). Bottled unfined and unfiltered, then released at 2 years.

A classic red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, very fine and elegant. The best vintages will age for 25 years and more.

 

VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 

2021 Assemblage: 40 % Clairette, 25 % Grenache Blanc, 25% Roussane and 10% Bourboulenc from vines averaging 45 years old. The wine matures its fine lees in barriques, demi-muids and 30 hl foudres. Bottled at 1 year.

A member of the classic school of white Châteauneuf-du-Pape: more floral than fruity aromas and characterised by balance and freshness. It might dip in form between four and eight years, but the best vintages age as well as the reds.

 

TÉLÉGRAMME CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE ROUGE

Vieux Télégraphe’s second label Châteauneuf-duPape red, made with the grapes of young vines under 40 years old, plus older parcels not located on the Plateaux of La Crau or Piedlong.

2020 Assemblage: 80% Grenache Noir, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre and 4% Cinsault. Matured for 15-16 months in French oak foudres (30-60 hl). Bottled without filtration or fining, released at 18 months.

A Châteauneuf-du-Pape seriously dominated by Grenache, which confers very singular suppleness and roundness. Best savoured young.

They cultivate and vinify various expressions of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape terroir across 247 acres.  They also farm 62 acres in Gigondas as well as 49.5 acres in IGP Vaucluse and AOC Ventoux.

 

PIEDLONG CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE ROUGE

LOCATION: For the Grenache grapes, the stony Piedlong Plateau in the heart of the Châteauneuf-duPape AOC area, north of the village, and the highest point in the production area (128m). For the Mourvèdre, the Pignan lieu-dit, east of Piedlong.

2020 Assemblage: 70-year-old Grenache Noir 90% and 50-year-old Mourvèdre 10% matured for 20-22 months in French oak foudres (60 hl), bottled without filtration or fining. Marketed at 2 years.

A Châteauneuf-duPape perfectly pitched between richness, freshness, robustness and femininity, velvet and minerality.

 

CLOS ROQUÈTE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC

The Roquète lieu-dit is in a part of the appellation with a very sandy topsoil. In the subsoil is a layer of red clay, this time mixed with a friable stone called “pierre de Châteauneuf”.

2021 Assemblage: 33% Roussane, 33% Clairette, 34% Grenache Blanc matured on fine lees in barriques, demi-muids and foudres. Bottled at 10 months.

La Roquète lieu-dit confers a highly distinctive freshness and elegance. Best in the first flush of youth.

Image of bottle of Domaine Les Pallieries Les Racines Gigondas

 

DOMAINE LES PALLIERIES LES RACINES GIGONDAS

Grown on northwest-facing hillside terraces in the most northerly reaches of the appellation. This selection comes entirely from parcels in the lieu-dit of Les Pallières, at an average altitude of about 250 metres.

2020 Assemblage: 80% Grenache Noir, 15% Syrah and Cinsault (co-planted) and 5% Clairette form vines averaging 70 years old. Matured for 20 months in French oak foudres (60 hl). Bottled unfined and unfiltered, then released at 2 years.

“Racines”, a cuvée made with grapes from the estate’s oldest vines, has the velvet, depth and harmony that defines old grenache when cultivated in refined terroirs. It has very high ageing potential, as balance is the main factor.

Image of bottle of Les Pigeoulet Des Brunier NV

 

LE PIGEOULET ROUGE, VAUCLUSE

A handsome 37 - acre holding in two parts: - 7.5 acres on the east bank of the Rhône, 15km north of Avignon. Modern sandy-clay alluvium. - 29.5 acres in the municipality of Caromb, on lower southwest-facing slopes of Mont Ventoux.

2021 Assemblage: 55% Grenache Noir, 15% Syrah, 15% Carignan, 8% Cinsault, 7% Mourvèdre from vines averaging 30 years old. Matured for 12 months s in foudres (60 hl). Bottled after light filtering at 1 year.

An everyday drinker. Tender, fresh and fruity in character, offering instant pleasure.

Image of a bottle of Le Pigeoulet Blanc

 

 

LE PIGEOULET BLANC, VAUCLUSE

Pigeoulet Blanc is made from a vine plot of just 2.5 acres: half in the Saint-Georges lieu dit in Courthézon, and half in the municipality of Caromb.

2022 Assemblage: Equal amounts of Roussane, Grenache Blanc and Clairette matured in 20-hectolitre foudres. Bottled after light filtering at 8 months.

A white wine that’s always ready to please. Subtle, elegant, classy.

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