News, Expert Opinions and general chit chat from the world of wine

JN Wine Blog

The Californian that trumps Bordeaux

Monte Bello Cabernet, from the original vineyards on Monte Bello ridge, is recognised as one of the great Bordeaux-style wines of California, frequently beating its French competitors in blind tastings.

THERE IS AN intellectual strain running through Ridge winery in California. Originally founded by a doctor, then revived, first by a theologian and more recently by a group of research scientists, its legendary winemaker majored in philosophy before turning to more mundane matters such as wine. In its most recent incarnation, Ridge started out as a hobby for four engineers from nearby Stanford Research Institute. They spent their weekends at the century-old winery, tending vines and making wine. As their favourite wines were red Bordeaux and white Burgundy, they planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. High up in the hills overlooking Silicon Valley, it was cooler than the other regions, but above the damp cold fog that sweeps in most days.

The original winery had been built in 1890 by a prominent San Francisco doctor of Italian descent. Like most wineries in California, it was abandoned during prohibition. In the 1940s, theologian William Short bought the winery and planted some Cabernet Sauvignon, which is still in use today. The new owners slowly renovated the winery, but retained many of the original features.

The first wine was made in 1959, the first commercial vintage in 1962. This was long before California became known as a quality wine-producing area; the competition made cheap jug wine generally labelled Chablis or Burgundy.

Ridge was the first to use a vineyard name on its label, and one of the first to state the grape variety. In the late 1960s and 1970s, it began searching out and making wine from old Zinfandel vineyards. Over the years, it has produced wines from more than 100 plots. This has now been narrowed down to about 15 carefully selected sites running from San Luis Obispo in the south to the Alexander Valley in the north.

The company owns just three of these vineyards, Monte Bello (the original vineyard), Lytton Springs and Geyserville, buying grapes from the remainder. In 1969, the company was joined by Stanford philosophy graduate Paul Draper, who made the wines for the next 40 years, crafting a range of idiosyncratic wines that went against everything else that was then fashionable in California. Draper preferred less alcoholic wines that reflected the soil on which they were grown. He also championed the semi-native Zinfandel. Today, Monte Bello Cabernet, from the original vineyards on Monte Bello ridge, is recognised as one of the great Bordeaux-style wines of California, frequently beating its French competitors in blind tastings, the most famous being in the “Judgment of Paris”. The Ridge Zinfandels (they make no less than 12), have a similar reputation among aficionados of that grape. Geyserville and Lytton Springs are the best-known.

Ridge Monte Bello 2010 & 2011

Ridge Available at JN

Ridge wines are unique for many reasons; the refusal to blend wines from different vineyards (this means 26 different wines each year); the use of American oak, where other upmarket producers prefer more expensive French barrels; the old-style winemaking, using natural yeasts and no filtration; the addition of a small proportion of other grape varieties in each wine. This makes for distinctive wines with real personality, often enjoyed by wine-drinkers who shun other New World wines.

Can wines at €40 and €100 be considered bargains? Compared to the fabulously expensive superstar wines from the Napa Valley and other parts of California, Ridge wines have always been fairly priced. In my experience, they also deliver every year. Of the limited range available in Ireland, it is only the Chardonnay that I find less than inspiring, although those who enjoy powerful oaky white wines might disagree. But the red wines are always impressive – opulent but never excessive, with complex earthy, spicy, dark fruits and real mineral depth.

Eric Baugher, the current winemaker, said on a recent visit to Dublin: “Ridge is all about letting the terroir and the grapes do the work on their own.”

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Bordeaux 2011 En Primeur

Unquestionably, 2011 has produced some very fine wines. There are many overextracted, excessively tannic efforts but many growers have managed to work the fruit intelligently - but I stress every wine has to be tasted and our final list will contain only those we are happy to endorse. Pricing is crucial and we expect to see reductions of at least 30% and hopefully 50%. Cos opened 50% down on 2010 and with yields of 36 hectolitres per hectare, that’s a brave, but wise, decision. Lafite opened just 25% down so we took the decision not to accept our allocation - it’s simply not worth the £5,000 per case price tag. If we can offer any advice, do please give us a call.

Day One

It's primeur time again in Bordeaux and Sunday’s arrival is greeted with a sunny 22˚C and the promise of a warm week ahead. There are three visits on the agenda tonight with the first at the Grand Theatre in the centre of Bordeaux, surely one of the most stunning cities in Europe, a tasting with Duclot and the night is set to conclude in Domaine de Chevalier in Leognan with tasting and supper.

The Grand Theatre, Bordeaux

It was in 1982 that our first odyssey into the region started and judging by weather patterns and vineyard reports it’s not a vintage in that league. However, every vintage is different and that’s what makes my job so exciting and unpredictable. I will be sending reports all this week and while I will be tasting up to 200 wines from the 2011 vintage I be searching out drinking vintages and value for money buys. I hope you stay tuned.

Sunday Nights tastings quickly proved that this is no easy vintage to taste - anything but homogenous, even next door neighbours have produced different styles. Those who have taken their foot off the extraction pedal seem to have handled the fruit better.

Highlights of the evening, Clos Fourtet, surely now a rival to Cheval Blanc and still undervalued? Conselliante, restrained, more low key than many of the others, D’Issan, Poujeaux, Pontet Canet, Domaine de Chevalier, Canon La Gaffeliere - a real star with La Mondotte not far behind. Domaine de Chevalier showed us a fairly new property which they bought a couple of years ago, Lespault - Martillac, one to watch.

Wines we enjoyed over supper were La Mondotte 2000, Domaine de Chevalier 2001, Canon La Gaffeliere 2000 and Domaine de Chevalier white 2001. The Domaine de Chevalier was the clear winner in my book with elegance, style and a long and refreshing finish. I think some of the 2000s I have tasted recently have reached a point where they are unlikely to get better?

Day Two

A day that starts in Haut Brion at 8am and finishes in Chateau Climens at 8pm is my idea of bliss, throw in Chateau Margaux, Lafite, Leoville Barton and Rauzan Segla to mention just a few - then you get an idea of what a busy life a wine merchant has! Highlights: the wonderfully textured and ethereal wines of Margaux, the sheer concentration of Haut Brion and the incredible length and persistence of pineapple fruit of Haut Brion blanc - the best dry white wine in Bordeaux and arguably the world in my opinion.

I tasted 175 wines today alone and probably the abiding memory will be the amazing visit to Chateau Climens and a cask tasting of the 2011 vintage with Berenice Lurton followed by a vertical tasting of vintages starting with 2009 back to 2005. These are possibly the finest sweet wines made in the world today.

I will follow with a full set of tasting notes and a few recommendations of lesser known gems. But it’s off to Chateau Montrose first thing and a day that will finish with a kitchen supper in Tertre Roteboeuf!

Day Three

Any day that starts with a visit to Chateau Montrose is a good one, although this is a really tough vintage for Saint Estèphe and the Montrose is not surrendering much charm and will not be top of the buying list. By contrast, the tasting at Calon Ségur is a revelation - a wine of polish, poise and high-toned, sweet-centred fruit; their second wine Marquis de Calon is also showing class and their baby property Capbern de Gasqueton potentially one of the great values of the vintage - juicy, full of racy fruit and surely a delight to drink in about 3/5 years. A quick spin into Sociando Mallet proves worthwhile - well-made wine and, if well priced, one to look out for.

Calon Ségur

Next stop Mouton Rothschild - another good effort from them and the second wine Petit Mouton is on form together with D’Armagnac, with Clerc Milon the only disappointment, just too green. A visit to Lafite reveals a closed wine with good concentration, but the dry, dusty tannins are a concern; Duhart Milon displays red berry fruit, quite high in acidity, but lacking the wow factor and, like many runners in the grand national, pulls up short. Lafite’s second wine Carruades, which now fetches prices which bear no relation to quality, shows good freshness, lightness in the middle palate and finishes short. Their opening prices will really have to be at least 50% down from last year’s. Even at that, will they represent any value? Lynch Bages is close by and we taste the range. Ormes de Pez displays good concentration with notes of new toasty oak with 45% of the ageing in new wood. Echo de Lynch Bages is young and racy with notes of spice and blackcurranty mineral fruit. Its big brother has tremendous concentration, high levels of tannin and just needs some more refreshing fruit to lift the end palate; it will take at least 8/10 years before a corkscrew is required.

Visiting Cos d’Estournel is always a treat. Their interior is the epitome of cool, their wine this year drastically reduced in quantity with well-heeled fresh, concentrated blackberry fruit; this will take a minimum of 8/10 years, but the second wine Pagodes which is fresher, but with a good rich middle palate, will drink in half that time and could be good value. Their third wine Goulée is also on form and, if it’s released at a tempting price, could be a good buy. Just down the road we arrive at Léoville Las Cases; the first wine is polished, quite richly constructed with the tell tale dry tannic finish so typical of the vintage. The second wine Le Petit Lion is ripe and pure and a really good effort but hard to find. Their Pomerol property, Nenin, displays sweet ripe fruit, quite fresh with elegance although their second wine Fugues de Nenin lacks engagement and is quite astringent. A 20-minute visit to the UGC tasting at Marquis de Terme is packed and uncomfortable with small spittoons filling up every 5 minutes. Brane Cantenac and Kirwan are the only two wines worthy of note.

Lunch time at Pontet Canet - we taste the 2011 first, extremely concentrated with the grapes being harvested at 32 hectolitres per hectare. The owner Alfred Tesseron then takes us to lunch, one of the highlights of the trip with possibly the finest cheese table ever assembled and the Pontet Canet 2003 to welcome the lamb. The 2003 is a delight to drink right now. A few final stops - Ducru Beaucaillou, disappointing wines, all quite closed. Jade Jagger has designed the label for the second wine Croix de Beaucaillou and the vintage is dedicated to Nicole Kidman - enough said! Our next appointment is at Château Malescot, late picked with rich opulent fruit; it’s long, complete, fresh and extremely good, one of the best efforts of the day - a case for my cellar please. It’s off to the right bank but we sign off on the left bank with a meeting with the owner of Chateau Boyd Cantenac, a château on the rise with a plush wine - long, perfumed and floral.

A furious drive to reach Tertre Roteboeuf for dinner by 7.30pm falls short by just 15 minutes. Francois starts by taking us for a tasting in the cellar. Tertre Roteboeuf, Domaine de Cambes and Roc des Combes are all on form and the latter two seem to have more weight than usual, but all display those tell tale signs - elegance, finesse and an almost Burgundian style that is Francois Mitjavile in a glass. He also shows us the 2010 vintage which no doubt is going to be one of the finest on record. Dinner is scallops, just out of the sea with delicious fresh black truffle washed down with Tertre Roteboeuf 2001, with the more robust 2005 the classic foil for perfectly cooked young venison.

Tomorrow’s agenda takes in Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Petrus, Cheval Blanc, VCC, Larcis Ducasse and Pavie Macquin and finishes in Libourne with Christian Moueix, so it’s off to bed!

Day Four

Another 7.30am start with a visit to Ausone tasting the range of 6 wines concluding with the main wine. Largely disappointing with very closed and angular wines that will take patience; some leaness on the Fonbel, short finish on Sinard, Haut Sinard and Chapelle d’Issan. The Moulin St Georges is more stylish with racy fruit and the Ausone is highly concentrated with really good ageing potential - it needs to be considerably lower in price if we are going to take up our allocation. A quick 5-minute drive to Cheval Blanc and we arrive in the wonderful new £10 million chai and fabulous barrel room. A very difficult tasting for both Cheval Blanc and Petit Cheval both of which are a little numb, quite fresh and very tannic, but have concentration - there is no question that it’s almost impossible to fully assess these wines at present. The disappointment is their other property, La Tour du Pin - great last year but quite aggressive with dry, unripe tannin to the fore. Y’Quem is under the same ownership and we get a separate tasting - wow, this is a sensational wine - orange, mint and a finish that lasts a full 2 minutes. Exotic and decadent springs to mind. Together with Climens, this wine is the pick of the vintage.

Next stop Petrus - another classic, focused effort with beautifully scented red berry fruit, tremendous concentration, but quite closed with tannin levels around 10/15% higher than last year. VCC is just next door and the 35% cabernet franc really lifts the wine; it’s been a really good year for that variety and put in the hands of a perfectionist, Alexandre Thienpont, the results speak for themselves. Great wine sometimes needs little explanation and the Thienponts make great wine. Quickly to Le Pin and Jacques, as always welcoming, and proud of his new micro- chateau which is virtually complete; the Le Pin 2011 is just a delight, almost in the style of a top Burgundy, elegant, refined, rich and very long. He also introduces his new Saint Emilion L’if, a name and property to watch - let’s hope he positions the price at an affordable level - it’s really concentrated, beautifully constructed and in about 5/6 years a joy to drink.

The final stop at JP Moueix in Libourne with Christian and Edouard Moueix. The wines are amazingly fresh, balanced with even some violet notes in the Certan de May and the La Fleur de Petrus, never one to overextract which is probably the biggest crime in this vintage. Highlights are Chateau La Serre, which gets better every vintage, Magdelaine, attractive, bright and in 6/7 years guaranteed delicious. Providence, Hosanna, La Fleur Petrus and Trotanoy are all engaging, extremely concentrated - worthy additions to any cellar; La Fleur Petrus will take the longest time, at least 10 years.

A 20-minute hop and is all aboard Aer Lingus and back on the water!

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James Nicholson reports from Bordeaux

It's primeur time again in Bordeaux and Sunday’s arrival is greeted with a sunny 22˚C and the promise of a warm week ahead. There are three visits on the agenda tonight with the first at the Grand Theatre in the centre of Bordeaux, surely one of the most stunning cities in Europe, a tasting with Duclot and the night is set to conclude in Domaine de Chevalier in Leognan with tasting and supper.

The Grand Theatre, Bordeaux

It was in 1982 that our first odyssey into the region started and judging by weather patterns and vineyard reports it’s not a vintage in that league. However, every vintage is different and that’s what makes my job so exciting and unpredictable. I will be sending reports all this week and while I will be tasting up to 200 wines from the 2011 vintage I be searching out drinking vintages and value for money buys. I hope you stay tuned.

Sunday Nights tastings quickly proved that this is no easy vintage to taste - anything but homogenous, even next door neighbours have produced different styles. Those who have taken their foot off the extraction pedal seem to have handled the fruit better.

Highlights of the evening, Clos Fourtet, surely now a rival to Cheval Blanc and still undervalued? Conselliante, restrained, more low key than many of the others, D’Issan, Poujeaux, Pontet Canet, Domaine de Chevalier, Canon La Gaffeliere - a real star with La Mondotte not far behind. Domaine de Chevalier showed us a fairly new property which they bought a couple of years ago, Lespault - Martillac, one to watch.

Wines we enjoyed over supper were La Mondotte 2000, Domaine de Chevalier 2001, Canon La Gaffeliere 2000 and Domaine de Chevalier white 2001. The Domaine de Chevalier was the clear winner in my book with elegance, style and a long and refreshing finish. I think some of the 2000s I have tasted recently have reached a point where they are unlikely to get better?

Day Two

A day that starts in Haut Brion at 8am and finishes in Chateau Climens at 8pm is my idea of bliss, throw in Chateau Margaux, Lafite, Leoville Barton and Rauzan Segla to mention just a few - then you get an idea of what a busy life a wine merchant has! Highlights: the wonderfully textured and ethereal wines of Margaux, the sheer concentration of Haut Brion and the incredible length and persistence of pineapple fruit of Haut Brion blanc - the best dry white wine in Bordeaux and arguably the world in my opinion.

I tasted 175 wines today alone and probably the abiding memory will be the amazing visit to Chateau Climens and a cask tasting of the 2011 vintage with Berenice Lurton followed by a vertical tasting of vintages starting with 2009 back to 2005. These are possibly the finest sweet wines made in the world today.

I will follow with a full set of tasting notes and a few recommendations of lesser known gems. But it’s off to Chateau Montrose first thing and a day that will finish with a kitchen supper in Tertre Roteboeuf!

Day Three

Any day that starts with a visit to Chateau Montrose is a good one, although this is a really tough vintage for Saint Estèphe and the Montrose is not surrendering much charm and will not be top of the buying list. By contrast, the tasting at Calon Ségur is a revelation - a wine of polish, poise and high-toned, sweet-centred fruit; their second wine Marquis de Calon is also showing class and their baby property Capbern de Gasqueton potentially one of the great values of the vintage - juicy, full of racy fruit and surely a delight to drink in about 3/5 years. A quick spin into Sociando Mallet proves worthwhile - well-made wine and, if well priced, one to look out for.

Calon Ségur

Next stop Mouton Rothschild - another good effort from them and the second wine Petit Mouton is on form together with D’Armagnac, with Clerc Milon the only disappointment, just too green. A visit to Lafite reveals a closed wine with good concentration, but the dry, dusty tannins are a concern; Duhart Milon displays red berry fruit, quite high in acidity, but lacking the wow factor and, like many runners in the grand national, pulls up short. Lafite’s second wine Carruades, which now fetches prices which bear no relation to quality, shows good freshness, lightness in the middle palate and finishes short. Their opening prices will really have to be at least 50% down from last year’s. Even at that, will they represent any value? Lynch Bages is close by and we taste the range. Ormes de Pez displays good concentration with notes of new toasty oak with 45% of the ageing in new wood. Echo de Lynch Bages is young and racy with notes of spice and blackcurranty mineral fruit. Its big brother has tremendous concentration, high levels of tannin and just needs some more refreshing fruit to lift the end palate; it will take at least 8/10 years before a corkscrew is required.

Visiting Cos d’Estournel is always a treat. Their interior is the epitome of cool, their wine this year drastically reduced in quantity with well-heeled fresh, concentrated blackberry fruit; this will take a minimum of 8/10 years, but the second wine Pagodes which is fresher, but with a good rich middle palate, will drink in half that time and could be good value. Their third wine Goulée is also on form and, if it’s released at a tempting price, could be a good buy. Just down the road we arrive at Léoville Las Cases; the first wine is polished, quite richly constructed with the tell tale dry tannic finish so typical of the vintage. The second wine Le Petit Lion is ripe and pure and a really good effort but hard to find. Their Pomerol property, Nenin, displays sweet ripe fruit, quite fresh with elegance although their second wine Fugues de Nenin lacks engagement and is quite astringent. A 20-minute visit to the UGC tasting at Marquis de Terme is packed and uncomfortable with small spittoons filling up every 5 minutes. Brane Cantenac and Kirwan are the only two wines worthy of note.

Lunch time at Pontet Canet - we taste the 2011 first, extremely concentrated with the grapes being harvested at 32 hectolitres per hectare. The owner Alfred Tesseron then takes us to lunch, one of the highlights of the trip with possibly the finest cheese table ever assembled and the Pontet Canet 2003 to welcome the lamb. The 2003 is a delight to drink right now. A few final stops - Ducru Beaucaillou, disappointing wines, all quite closed. Jade Jagger has designed the label for the second wine Croix de Beaucaillou and the vintage is dedicated to Nicole Kidman - enough said! Our next appointment is at Château Malescot, late picked with rich opulent fruit; it’s long, complete, fresh and extremely good, one of the best efforts of the day - a case for my cellar please. It’s off to the right bank but we sign off on the left bank with a meeting with the owner of Chateau Boyd Cantenac, a château on the rise with a plush wine - long, perfumed and floral.

A furious drive to reach Tertre Roteboeuf for dinner by 7.30pm falls short by just 15 minutes. Francois starts by taking us for a tasting in the cellar. Tertre Roteboeuf, Domaine de Cambes and Roc des Combes are all on form and the latter two seem to have more weight than usual, but all display those tell tale signs - elegance, finesse and an almost Burgundian style that is Francois Mitjavile in a glass. He also shows us the 2010 vintage which no doubt is going to be one of the finest on record. Dinner is scallops, just out of the sea with delicious fresh black truffle washed down with Tertre Roteboeuf 2001, with the more robust 2005 the classic foil for perfectly cooked young venison.

Tomorrow’s agenda takes in Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Petrus, Cheval Blanc, VCC, Larcis Ducasse and Pavie Macquin and finishes in Libourne with Christian Moueix, so it’s off to bed!

 

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Grand days at the Grands Jours de Bourgogne

The Grands Jours de Bourgogne takes place every 2nd year and is a wonderful opportunity to taste the top producers’ wines from the last couple of vintages all together in one place. Judith and I were there for the Cote de Nuits event last Tuesday and the Beaune and surrounding area on the Wednesday.

Tuesday – Cote de Nuits

We started off in Gilly-les-Citeaux , a village more famed for its wonderful cheese than for wine, but it is just a stone’s throw from the grand cru vineyards of Chambolle Musigny and Morey. What a treat this was! Generally the first wine of the day is a bit of a shock to the system but not so here: Domaine Arlaud’s Chambolle Musigny from 2010 – pure strawberry fruit, creamy core, needle-fine acidity, a beautifully poised and well balanced wine. Most producers were showing the 2010 vintage from their grand crus between Chambolle and Morey. The best for me came from Amiot, Ghislaine Barthod, Domaine Dujac, Domaine des Lambrays, Hubert Lignier, Lignier Michelot, Jacques Frederic Mugnier and Domaine Arlaud. Unfortunately very few of the top producers have any wine available. Yields were down 40% but the quality of what was produced is excellent here in the grand cru sites of the Cote de Nuits. A different, more “classical” vintage than the 2009, it will appeal to those who place balance and finesse, above concentration and power. Ok some of the producers have too much new oak for my personal taste but it was heartening to see so many moving towards organic viticulture and even biodynamics, which without doubt is giving these wines a purity of fruit which is scintillating to taste. Domaine Arlaud practises biodynamic viticulture with younger sister Bertille looking after the horses which plough their precious grand cru vineyards while brother Romain tends the vines and elder brother Cyprien sees to the business side of things. If this is the future face of Burgundy then all is rosy in the vineyard!

Judith at Clos de Vougeot

And so it was back on the shuttle bus and down the Cote de Nuits to our next stop, the Clos de Vougeot. Founded around 1110 by the abbey of Citeaux, the walls around the appellation still date back 5 or 6 centuries, though the vineyards are now divided between around 70 and 80 owners. The 2010 Clos Vougeot wines we tasted had remarkable vivacity, energy and freshness, yet not at the expense of length on the palate. Our favourites here were from Sylvain Cathiard, Jean Grivot, Anne Gros and Jean Tardy. A t JNwine we have been following the wines of young Guillaume Tardy for several years now. He took us through the wines he was showing from the 2010 vintage: Vosne Romanee Vigneux with 30% new oak is beautifully balanced with red fruits and spring flowers on the nose, very fresh and firm with energy and poise. The Eschezeaux has 100% new oak and a yield of only 35 hectolitres per hectare. It is more concentrated and savoury in character, with an admirable combination of intensity and freshness. We look forward to shipping our allocation of Guillaume’s 2010 in the not too distant future. Check out our current range from Jean Tardy.

Old Cellar at Clos de Vougeot

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Fine Wines Burgundy 2009 2010

2009 was one of those exceptional years where virtually every region in France produced stunning wines. Burgundy was no exception. The quality of the 2010 vintage, on the other hand, came as more of a surprise as it was a year which presented many problems for the growers. At various times a combination of cooler-than-normal temperatures, frost and hail threatened to consign the vintage to mediocrity. Thankfully, July was warm and sunny, rescuing the flowering and with the exception of the odd storm here and there, the weather stabilised. The problem with frost and hail is that they inevitably cause damage to the vines, and as a result, yields are down by almost 30% in some parts of the region. Weather extremes or inconsistencies certainly lead to problems, but often what is left is fantastic – and this is the case for 2010 Burgundy: red wines that have a great expression of fruit, concentration and power; white wines that are beautifully balanced and fresh. Purity and energy are words you will hear regularly when it comes to both reds and whites from 2010. Respected critic and Burgundy resident Allen Meadows of Burghound claims that the 2010 Burgundies are notable for their refinement, balance and great sense of energy:

“It’s one thing to have racy acidity and punch but it’s another to ally these attributes with real substance. And this is what the 2010s do with such brilliance.”

This really is a vintage not to be missed, and there is a strong argument to suggest that 2010 will be regarded among the finest vintages in recent memory.

'Village People'

“In the top echelon of the world’s finest Pinot Noir producers along with The Domaine Leroy, Bernard Dugat makes the most “vin de garde” Pinot Noir in the world. It is truly a mistake to drink his Villages wines, on up through the Crus, before they have been in bottle five years after the vintage (the Bourgogne, maybe three). He and his charming wife, Jocelyne Py, thus Domaine Dugat-Py, work extremely hard in the vines (theirs are some of the most beautifully tended in all of Burgundy), cutting them back in order to lower yields and extract more from the soil. Bernard’s wines are so intense because they are so concentrated from the juice that goes into the wine.That Bernard is a genius in vinifying Pinot Noir doesn't hurt either.” Burghound.com

Dugat Py Bourgogne Rouge AC 2009

Crafted from clay/limestone plots with an average vine age of 35 years. Traditional winemaking techniques are the rule at Dugat-Py and no artificial preparations have been used on the soil or vinessince 2003. Yields are miniscule at 23 hectolitres per hectare – the equivalent of most producers’ Grand Cru yields. This is a wine for laying down, but can be appreciated when young after carafing for several hours before serving. The wine is not filtered.
£340.20 / €428.17 per 12 bottles Buy Online

Gevrey Chambertin AC Coeur de Roy, Très Vieilles Vignes 2009

“A classic Gevrey nose combines pungent earth and underbrush aromas with cool and pure red berry fruit nuanced by a touch of cassis that is in keeping with the restrained, textured and concentrated middle weight all wrapped in a hugely complex and persistent finish. This is one of the finest village wines that I have ever tasted but note that it is built to go at least 20 years. Tasted: 1 Jan 2011. Score: 91–94. Drink: 2023+.” Burghound
£1,134.00 / €1,399.76 per 12 bottles Buy Online

Gevrey Chambertin AC Vieilles Vignes 2009

The Domaine comprises 5 hectares of vineyards including holdings in several Premier Cru sites and 3 Grands Crus. Winemaking is conducted with as little intervention as possible. The vines are very oldand yields are kept very low. Wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered. Dugat-Py seeks elegance, not opulence in his wines. Although concentrated, the wines are very stylish and well balanced. The Vieilles Vignes is produced from vines of between 30 and 50 years of age, grown in clay/limestone soils. The vines have been treated only with organic preparations since 2003 and yields are exceptionally low. Production is a miniscule 3000 to 4000 bottles. The wine will be at its best with 5–8 years of cellaring.
£826.20 / €1,026.50 per 12 bottles Buy Online

Gevrey Chambertin AC 1er Cru 2009

“The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is a totally seamless, opulent wine that caresses the palate with layers of intense fruit. Fullbodied and rich to the finish, the 1er Cru is flat-out beautiful. This authoritative Burgundy will require patience, but it is striking in is harmony. In 2009 the 1er Cru is made from parcels in Les Corbeaux and Les Perrieres, as Dugat made the decision to vinify and age the Fontenys separately in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2024–2039.91–94 pts.” Antonio Galloni, eRobertParker.com, May 2011
“100% new oak. Corbeaux, Perrières. The fruit is starting to climb out of the oak here. Very polished and zesty with real attack. Harmonious,and quite forward for Dugat-Py. 17 pts. Drink 2016–2026.” Jancis Robinson Purple Pages, 27 Jan 2011
£945.00 / €1163.72 per 6 bottles Buy Online

Charmes Chambertin AC Grand Cru 2009

“The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin bursts onto the palate with layers of dark, finely-knit fruit. This is an expansive, broad-shouldered wine that blossoms with notable richness and depth. The intensity of the fruit flows through gracefully to the long, intense finish. Anticipated maturity: 2029–2049. 95–97 pts.”Antonio Galloni, eRobertParker.com, May 2011“Contains one-third Mazoyères. 100% new oak. Very dark. Less than 50% whole grapes. Very luscious and spicy. Firm structure underneath. Very flattering. Very fluid for him! Lots of excitement underneath here. 17+ pts.”Jancis Robinson Purple Pages, 27 Jan 2011
£1,431.00 / €1756.57 per 6 bottles Buy Online

Javillier’s wines are full of charm and flavour, so the crisp acidity of 2010 suits them well. Lees contact has long been a cornerstone of élevage in this ex courtier's well-kept, well-lit cellars.

Domaine Patrick Javillier, Cuvée Oligocène, Bourgogne Blanc AC , 2010

“Always one of Javillier’s best value wines, this cuvée is made from 30-year-old vines in Les Pellans lieu-dit to the west of Meursault village towards Puligny which, unusually, is classified partly in theMeursault appellation and partly as Bourgogne Blanc. He is lucky enough to have 0.75 ha of Les Pellans – enough to make this wine in reasonable quantity, and the mineral-infused wine is so called because the vineyard is based on ancient Oligocene deposits under brown limestone. Although it is not long bottled, and carries the humble Bourgogne appellation, it will continue to evolve for many a year in bottle. I would drink this highly successful vintage between 2013 and 2017.” Jancis Robinson, Purple Pages, Wine of the Week, January 2012
£237.06 / €304.65 per 12 bottles Buy Online

Bourgogne Blanc AC , Cuvée des Forgets 2010

This cuvée comes from different parcels in the Bourgogne Blanc appellation situated in the territory of Meursault les Herbeux and les Vaux next to Volnay. The brown soils of les Herbeux and a part of les Vaux are on silt covering ancient alluvium or villafranchian. The nose of this wine is expressive with notes of white and yellow fruits, succulent flowers and touches of toast. On the palate, the wine displays fine balance with a creamy mouthfeel with hints of apple, citrus and spice undercut with crisp acidity. This is an expressive and fresh wine with a long, refreshing finish. Tight and powerful wine, it can be enjoyed over the next three years.
£193.86 / €252.50 per 12 bottles Buy Online

Meursault AC Les Tillets 2009

The name “Tillet” refers to a kind of medieval lime tree that was found in and around the Javillier vineyards. Les Tillets is above the village of Meursault near the mountain. The nose of the Tillets is expressive, marked by aromas of white flowers, yellow and white fruit as well as lightly spicy notes. The nose is complex with great elegance. The palate is round with lovely vivacity and excellent aromatic freshness as well as minerality. This is a wine with a great deal of finesse and persistence on the palate that doesn't conceal its power. Elegant and linear, its style is between a classic Meursault and a Puligny-Montrachet. Drink 2013–2018.
£415.80 / €526.97 per 12 bottles Buy Online

Meursault AC Les Narvaux 2009

Nose of hazelnut, citrus fruit, green apple, lemon and tangerine with a tasty touch of sea salt. Lovely refreshing feel on the palate with hazelnut, glycerine, green apple, and smoke tones overall. This wine, one of JN's best-selling Burgundies, will cellar happily for at least 5 years.

£372.60 / €466.59 per 12 bottles Buy Online

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (red) AC 2009

“From vineyards situated just above Vosne-Romanée (and picked five days later), this is a brilliant entry point red from a domaine on the up. Light, elegant, balanced and fragrant. Drink now and for the next 5 years. 92 pts.” Tim Atkin

£204.66 / €260.74 per 12 bottles Buy Online


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